Tactical Command
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1 quick question
http://www.tacticalwargames.net/taccmd/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10895
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Author:  plm2212 [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:00 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

I have been having some problems lately with my ink washes.  I have been having the inks dry very splotchy and just completly turning certain areas black :( .  Is there a certain formula you guys use when doing ink washes.  I normally do 1 part ink to 4 parts water, is there something I am missing.  This does not seem to be a problem for the orks, but I have an eldar army I want to start working on and do not want to have these same problems.  Is it just simpler to do black lining instead of inking the whole model.  I have also purchased some of the Woodland Scenic(sp) pigments that Onyx uses, but have not tried them yet as they seem even thicker than the inks.  Any help would be apprecited.

Laters

Author:  Chaplain Leviticus [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 12:03 am ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

Ink?  Huh....?  You know me, I just drench everything in wonderwash!

Author:  zap123 [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:34 am ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

If you just want it to run into the recesses you could try adding a small drop of dishwashing detergent to break up the surface tension a little (or MicroSol setting solution).

Author:  Onyx [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:57 am ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

I usually get a cup of water, then add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to that first. I then use that water to dilute the W.S. stuff, roughly 50/50 (depends on what I'm using it for).

With the washing liquid in the water, it flows just right on almost all painted surfaces.
Have fun with it.
Only way to find out is have a go plm (thats how I learned)!

Author:  levinas [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

I'd also add in a drop of paint to the mix. It tends to take away the shine and, like the soap, breaks the surface tension to allow it to flow over the model a little better. I'd also say that your mix sounds very thin but I guess it's safer that way.

The other thing that might be a factor is what you're washing the ink over. For example, Tamiya sprays tend to dislike ink whereas GW or Vallejo paints seem to like it.

Author:  plm2212 [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:47 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

Right now I am only using GW and P3 paints.  Sorry should have put that in my first post.

Laters

Author:  Pulsar [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

if you don't like the way washing up liquid works try a little bit of GW matt varnish (the one in the paint pot) mixed into the ink, it will make the ink a bit more slick so it goes into the receses better,

sometimes i find that inks are a bit shiny for washes so i try to mix up some paint to match the inks colour.

hope that helps!





Author:  Dave [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 3:40 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

I originally used future floor wax to break up the cohesion of the water I used to thin my paints and inks. However, I would recommend something like Winsor and Newton's Acrylic Flow Improver now after using it for a couple of years.

I thin it 1 part flow improver, 3 parts water, and then use that to thing my paints and inks.  Any splotches I see when using this is from using way too much paint.

Author:  scream [ Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:41 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

Alcohol is also a good medium to break surface tension. I use some Domestic alcohol ("alcool m?nager" in french) when I use the WS pigments.

Author:  Lextar [ Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  1 quick question

I use standard black and use lots of water. Then I just drench the whole model in it regardless of the base colour. Then i just re-paint with highlights.

If I end up with the mix too watered, it doesnt matter as its mainly water and that evaporates anyway, so i don't have much pigments on the model.

If its not watered down enough, I just start highlighting it again, but at least the recess is darker, probably darker than I hope for though. So I tend to over water just to be safe.

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