My answer was a bit short
Yes I see the problem.

I would think that special problem could be solved, but other variants will always have some degradation. You will have to find a compromise.

I try not to do multi part models just because of the potential problem of sides that are not flat.

But usually that is no problem for me, because the models don't have to be converted into moulds.

A powder printer would help.
But I can't afford none, that would have a good enough resolution Also the material might not survive play.

Redid the flyers. The Knight torso is not that prominent anymore.
The exhausts got replaced by a proper tail fin.
The wings got smoother.

When you look at the model, you will realise that the side with the least detail is the back. And you can grow everything from the back to the front. So I printed it standing on it's back. This will give me the best quality for that model.
I used a multitude of very small supports (diameter 0.3mm). Those have the advantage that they can be broken off (nearly) without any damage to the model.
The drawback is that the model might break from the supports during the release cycle. To prevent this the model is placed so its "thin" side lies along the axis of vat movement.
In addition I added some thicker supports not for growing, but stability reasons. I choose the contact point of those, in a way that I can cut them easily off or any damage by breaking them off is hidden or could be part of a feature.
I also used a more heavily pigmented resin, which will give sharper detail and reduce light bleed - and can be photographed more easily.

Here you can see a wavy pattern, which shows that it is time to readjust and lube the printer. I usually only readjust when the waviness is still visible on the painted model.


Note the support inside the mounting hole for the stand.
Note the that the "stability" supports are mounted on some features(center of cross of lance) or accessible corners (tip of shield). This allows them to be broken of without to much "visual" damage or to be cut away easily.


@Toddermann
Is the radiator meant to be that way, i.e. separate fins without connection ?
If so it will never work without being fastened somewhere.
I added a "core" and will print a sample. I assumed 1 mm thickness for a fin. That's rather thick, but I do not know what resolution you use and what the radiator is meant for.


Here we go:
I did three Radiators. One on the build platform, one parallel to it, but on supports and one standing on an "edge".



Sadly the one parallel ripped off during printing and contaminated the on mounted on the build platform.

The one mounted on the ground looked quite ok, but basically it only left the on standing on na edge to judge.
There is still some water on the model, I only saw it in the photograph.
On my monitor the model is 5 times as large as the real model. Keep that in mind, when judging quality.

Interestingly enough there seems to be some bend on the left end.


Now it moved to the right end - rotating does that to you.


Dust from removing the supports.


Basically I'd say it works. but needs some fine tuning (bends). It might be enough to rotate it relative to the vat movement. Or it might need another support to counter the bend.

You probably never get it it perfect with a "cheap" SLA printer, but I believe you can get it "good enough".

Having said that, there are definitely things best avoided in a design.

I would love to see you try a 3mm print at some point. i.e with the minatures printed onto a base. lets say 5 terminators with over exaggered features just to see if it could be done

If you google 6mm terminator in google images a blue concept sculpt shows up on thingiverse, a bit of
a cartoony sculpt but i actually quite like it as it shows the features.......................can it be scaled down

The problem is not so much as to print them than to photograp them.

I didn't do the Terminator Model. I downloaded it from Thingiverse, scaled him down to half size and put five of him on a base.

I used supports for the barrels, which I mounted o0n the front of the base. You will see the blemishes in the photographs. By mounting the supports on the print platform those can be avoided. The brown Termies have the same blemishes also on the rear of the base, because I placed the too close to the supports of another stand.

The natural color is dark green. I spray painted one black and drybrushed it. You will see the grain of the drybrush in the images. Another Termie I sprayed sand and inked brown. In the pictures you will see that the sand looks mottled, I was rather sparse with the spray paint as I was afraid to fill up any details. I only spotted the mottles on the pictures, I did not notice them in real life. Especially on the green models you will see little bits like dust or pieces of resin. Theses can be brushed off. Point is I only notice those rarely, it's only those macro pictures which make them larger than life.

Here is the beef. decide for yourself:










The original images are larger, but it gets only more disturbing with size. It doesn't add anything to judging the quality.

And yes, I painted the pupils in the eyes. You just can't see them under the helmet.

This has made my day,week,maybe month I think they look amazing, i actually really like the thingiverse design in a funny sort of way as it reminds me of the old first box set of space hulk minis.

I think these would look even more amazing on a round base ! You can get some 3mm raiders and rhinos.
I wonder what the SM look like which will be even smaller.

I am so chuffed you did these, thank you so much i have always wanted to see this done after seeing the thingiverse model.

THEYRE SO LITTLE

And, of course, with 3mm scale space marine infantry, the GW 6mm scale Rhinos and Land Raiders might be close to the correct size, proportionally.

_________________
Thanks,
Troy


Once Upon a Midnight Dreary....

No the vehicles need scaling down also to fit in with MICRO ARMAGEDDON ! The only GW made think i would introduce to a set of these would be the imperator titan !

I can see them now based on 1 pence pieces The battle field or city scape could be massive

your knights look awesome, along with the rest of your stuff.

How many pieces were they printed in?

Single pieces - there must be a good reason for me to do multi-part models.

It's less time consuming to do different models than to design them with interchangeable parts.

Nice, im learning something new every day. Was there a lot of support to remove from them?

It alsways depends on the model and you can design for a minimum of supports.

This one needs a lot of supports for the fingers, knuckles and nails.
Would the hand be palm up like holding an orb, the number of supports could be reduced drastically.


You can see that the chainsaw has a blade between the two chains of the sword or a faceplate over the center of the chain (just as you like to interpret it). This removes the need to support each and every link(tooth of the chain.


Hopefully your printer's software will hint you where to place supports. After a while you ill know where you can ignore some of the hints and where to add additional supports.

THanks. Very informative.

Thats not alot of support needed.

And very nice models!

When I design a model I try to keep supports in check.
I.e. the disks in the elbow region would normally need supports. But they are not disks, but cones. This makes supports for them obsolete in most cases.

Hi!

Cool!

Primarch

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Primarch


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