WOWZA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Legion 4 "Cry Havoc, and let slip the Dogs of War !" ... "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."

awesome man, really cool painting!

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My Tyranid army: http://www.tacticalwargames.net/taccmd/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29905

amazing family reuinion shot

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Just some guy

My hobby/painting threads

Army Forge List Co-ordinator

Im liquid jelly

That's outrageously good.

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Beautiful minis, you should be mighty proud!

Gahh.. crazy how good the paintjob is

Thanks guys!

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-Vaaish

Hey Vaaish, so this question may have been answered before now, but I can't find it.

Looking waaaaaay back in your body of work what did you use to bulk out the main body of your IF Marine Landing Craft? I've ha d one for a while now and I'm finally getting round to painting it and it definitely needs a little bit of beefing up!

I used mostly square plastic rod and bits of styrene strip for detail on it. Reminds me I need to go pull that out and darken up some of the shadows and bump up the highlights.

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-Vaaish

I was afraid you'd say that. Plasticard and bits of filed down sprue it is then!

Hey Vaaish, I'm curious if there is a particular primer/color you use for your models. I have mostly used Krylon flat black (flirting with the idea of using grey) in the past but wanted to get your expert opinion. Also do you seal your models at all and if so do you spray it on or no? Thanks.

I think I've tried most of the major brands of primers and so far the one that's worked the best is P3 white. All the others would fuzz from time to time but I've never had P3 do it. It's a but more expensive at $10 a can but far more reasonable than GW and less prone to issues as Army Painter.

I used to prime black but these days I only prime white. I started partly because of the colors I was painting worked better on white but I've found white just works better in general.

I do seal all of my gaming models. The HH models I've been posting aren't sealed as they are meant for display. For that I've taken to using a quick touch of UV resistant gloss followed by a good coat of Testor's Dullcote. Sometimes I just do the dullcote, but not often. I also keep some Vallejo brush on matte varnish around to touch up spots. Same with gloss.

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-Vaaish

Thanks for the feedback mate. I'll definitely have to check out P3. I know the problems associated with the fuzz factor all too well. Got to love living in Atlanta where one doesn't simply feel the humidity, you swim in it. I've "lost" many a good model that way and now have to plan my spray sessions accordingly.

White still sounds like a lot of work but I'll have to see what colors I'm working with first before I shoot that idea down.

Regarding the sealer, I've always heard good things about Testor's so that seals the deal right there (sorry, couldn't help myself). I'm curious regarding the UV stuff. I'll have to give that a try as well. My understanding has always been that gloss goes on first for better protection and then the dull coat to get rid of some of the shininess.

Thanks again and I look forward to many more of your exhibitions!

I'm up in Greenville and the situation isn't much better.

White isn't really that much more work, it just means I sometimes have to undercoat areas black. If you want to see the difference between white and black primer, look back in the thread for the Blood Raven's Damocles Rhino I did up. With Black it's more of a Flesh Tearors red while white gives it the more rich Blood Raven's red you see on the next vehicle.

On the varnish. You probably don't need UV stuff. My wife uses it for some of work so it's around. It just means that the paint pigment won't fade in time. I do a VERY light layer of glosss and then hit it with dullcote.

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-Vaaish