So i don't know if this is the right forum for this but i thought i'd just take a stab. I'm lookin for what would be an easy to use free 3d modeling software for creating the masters to start making miniatures.

Thx,
Blind-

Actually i guess a better question would be how do i go about making my own miniatures, if someone wouldnt mind giving me a run down on how they do it.

If you've not tried 3d modelling before, start with Sketchup. It's reasonably intutive, reasonably powerful and free.

Some people use MOI or blender - depending on whether they're after organic curves.

But Sketchup will see you right, and it has a lot of support online.

In simple steps:

1) make digital model
2) print using a 3d plastic printer

then, if you want multiple and don't want the expense of multiple print jobs:

3) use plastic model to make investment mold
4) use investmeent mold to make investment cast
5) use investment cast to make vulcanised mold
6) use vulcanised mold to make 2nd model.

It's not a trivial process, and it's much more expensive then just buying the miniatures where they are available.

I really appreciate this doc, i understand it isn't going to be cheap but i would really like to try my hand at modeling my own minis and seeing how it all can turn out.

In simple steps:

1) make digital model
2) print using a 3d plastic printer

then, if you want multiple and don't want the expense of multiple print jobs:

3) use plastic model to make investment mold
4) use investmeent mold to make investment cast
5) use investment cast to make vulcanised mold
6) use vulcanised mold to make 2nd model.

It's not a trivial process, and it's much more expensive then just buying the miniatures where they are available.[/quote]

Mad Doc,

I'm asking to understand the process. Why would you make an investment cast? Why not just jump from 3D printed model to vulcanized mold? Thx

_________________
~ Anthony
 

As I understand it, the investment cast (also referred to as a 'bronze') is made because the 3d printing will deform/melt when you take a vulcanized mold of it. Vulcanization involves high temperatures and pressures, so the stuff they use to print just isn't up to the task.

_________________
SG

Ghost's Paint Blog, where everything goes that isn't something else.

Bronzes are made of a similar material to black boxes on aeroplanes and those cute little puppies in movies.

In short, other than a small thermonuclear detonation at your casters they will survive anything, so are great.

You can cold cast your 3D printed masters but a mistake will damage / destroy your miniature and you'll have to reprint them.

Plus, bronze models look gorgeous on the master shelf.

_________________
Tom Webb
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Not all casters require an investment bronze, some are able to do an interim high temp resin mould, which is a lot cheaper.

care to elaborate on that zombo? lately i've been thinking i really need to look into doing some of my work myself, but i always want stuff at too high a quantity to just print-a-part them, but too low a quantity to justify proper investment casting. a middle ground could be quite useful...

_________________
~Every Tool Is A Weapon, If You Hold It Right~

As I said, it depends on the caster. My caster is able to do a low temperature silicone mould from the blues, then cast high temp resins for use to make a master mould. It's still not cheap at all, but it's cheaper than bronzing.

Any room temperature vulcanizing silicone (Smooth on) should be ok with the matter printer stuff from, lets say, Shapeways. Then, if your just messing around for yourself and don't care about production you can cast in resin. (that's the 'middle ground' in my mind)

If eventually you want a spin caster to make a spin cast mold, he probably could use one of your resin pieces as a master. Or you could always use the mold you were using for resin to make a wax model for the 'plaster' investment mold that will be used to make the bronze master.

I've been making lots of molds and castings with Smooth On products, after you get the hang of it it's pretty straight forward, just time consuming. I have made armor and 6mm figures with only a minor learning curve. I use a pressure pot, both when I make the mold and when I cast. Some of the compounds don't really even need that.

I just ordered some stuff from Shapeways that I made with a CAD program (Alibre). The only issue I have had is Shapeways 'takes their time'. I haven't made any molds yet with them yet but will in the next week or so. I don't however see any negative issues in doing so at the moment with the RTV silicone mold compound.

could you a post a pic of some of your mini's from shapeways westside? If you don't mind that is. I'm interested to see how it turns out.

Heres some photos from my stuff I had Shapeways print: the first is one of the rear walls from some 'building panels' I'm going to cast up. Unfortuately the rear walls are the plainest one and Shapeways still hasn't sent me the fronts or the sides. I intentionally left off any IPish detail so I have a work I could call my own. This was printed in 'white and flexable'

The next photos are of my Space nun rhino refit kits, that fit the SG rhino/and varients. In this case I unfortuately ordered the wrong type of matter print (frosted detail). Fortunately they kinda turned out anyways, I however am waiting for some from Shapeways in the 'frosted ultra detail', which I'm certain will be even better on the detail.

I should mention two rear walls and the two retrofiit kits cost me about 30 USD from Shapeways. The CAD program (used for other things also, cost around $900). A basic mold kit costs about $60, and the pressure pot and air compressor cost about $260, just thought I'd mention this, as it can get kinda of expensive (in a relative way).

Some other little bits of info: what ever you draw the design in for the matter printer you probably would like a design program that will output a STL file. Most matter print companies I have glanced over use that file protocol. It would also be helpful if the CAD program had some type of 'merge/unite' function that would make all your seperate little peices you draw up be recognized by the matter printer as one 'closed' object.

This company (recommended by Shapeways) had a free download that might help fix up some stuff designed on various CAD systems.
http://www.netfabb.com/?lang=0
I check my designs on this and output them to a binary STL file.

I just used Alibre because I already owned it. I think they also have a freeware version (not sure about that, nor about its file save features).

I have also looked into the freeware Blender, which looks like it would be great for actual figures and objects that have more natural lines, then the Netfabb fixer would proably be a must.

If I wasn't so lazy (and sitting at the desk didn't kill my hips) I'd get started on some more Nun toys and other little retrofits I need.

In summation I would describe the whole casting/printing process as satisfying rather than enjoyable

And just for comparison here are some screenshots of what the matter printed examples looked like on the CAD program.